ISLAMABAD: In a remarkable feat of strength and determination, Pakistan’s renowned mountaineer Sajid Ali Sadpara has successfully summited Dhaulagiri (8,167m), the world’s seventh-highest mountain, without supplemental oxygen or porter support, adding another milestone to his growing legacy.
The Alpine Club of Pakistan confirmed the summit, noting that this marks Sadpara’s ninth 8,000-metre peak, all climbed without bottled oxygen and completely unsupported, a rare distinction even among elite climbers.
On May 4, Sajid and three other Pakistani climbers began their expedition to Dhaulagiri, located in western Nepal. Sadpara had reached the base camp on April 6 and conducted acclimatization climbs up to Camp 3 before launching his final summit push.
According to Seven Summit Treks, the expedition organizer, Sajid began his push from Camp IV at 6:15 p.m. on Friday and reached the summit by 9:35 a.m. on Saturday — the first confirmed ascent of Dhaulagiri in the Spring 2025 season. The team also fixed over 350 meters of rope above 8,050m during the climb, securing the final stretch of the route.
“This is a historic milestone that reflects the strength and courage of Pakistani climbers on the world stage,” said Karrar Haidri, Secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan.
At just 29 years old, Sajid has become a leading figure in global high-altitude climbing. He has previously scaled Everest, K2 (twice), Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum-I, and Gasherbrum-II, all above 8,000m, with no supplemental oxygen. He once climbed Gasherbrum-I and II in just 3 days and 18 hours, setting a record.
Sajid is the son of legendary mountaineer Muhammad Ali Sadpara, who tragically lost his life during a winter ascent of K2 in 2021. Sajid later led the heartbreaking mission to locate and bury his father and fellow climbers John Snorri and Juan Pablo Mohr, whose bodies were discovered five months after they went missing.
“First, summiting K2 was a dangerous adventure. But burying my father above 8,000 metres was the most extraordinary and emotional mission of my life,” Sajid recalled.
Sajid’s recent success is not just a personal triumph, it’s a step toward fulfilling his father’s dream: to summit all 14 of the world’s 8,000m peaks without oxygen.
“Climbing is in my blood,” he said. “When you grow up in an environment where all you hear, see, and train for is mountaineering, you become a mountaineer.”
The Dhaulagiri expedition was backed by Seven Summit Treks (Nepal) and Sabroso Pakistan, with technical gear sponsored by Kailas.
As Sajid Sadpara continues his quest to conquer all 14 eight-thousanders, he is not only climbing mountains, he is cementing Pakistan’s name among the legends of high-altitude mountaineering.
